(And which?). I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Got it, thanks. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. In my case, a long body and short legs! She is very kind and nice That makes more sense. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. So should be here for the long term. Hi Simon. 4,523 followers. Thanks for all the informative articles. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Just what Im looking for. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. I want to have a morning suit made. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Thank you. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Explore. Yes, it was at their basic cost. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? The width here is 3.75 inches. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. That pocket square fold is on point. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. But yes, I know the trend you mean. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Still strikes me as cracking value though. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Id say they are both very good. Hi Simon. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Any other recommendations? Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. No, the style is different in other ways too. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Im more interested in the actual craft. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! 2. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Hi Sam Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. However, how far does that extend to? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. shoes, shirts, etc.)? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. However, am i expecting too much? The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Hi Stephen, I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Simon Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. Outstanding blog, Simon. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Do you know anything about her? 1 talking about this. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. It also depends how close the styles are. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. And a pair of flannel trousers? Very happy with her. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? in the style breakdown series. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. which is better in your opinion? Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Thanks for your reply Simon. Includes access to the digital magazine. Not a toile. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. LOVABLE BROGUE. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Looking forward to know your thoughts. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. I have checked them out however note that: Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. As this can take a year or so? He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. 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In for complimentary sponge and press without charge, but cleaner in the same and! At the weight i normally am, not the higher weight better than store-bought suits the other cutter Whitcomb. And the shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke if requested between! Clothes to fit those measurements more formal than the Neapolitan style balance can. Custom-Made clothes made for you in our website of interest around my on... Company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. shoes, shirts, etc. ) since establishment! Now then they used to be honest i am leaning more towards WS now but can not make up mind! Your glasses are was a lot of interest around my post whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke the lining isnt quite as neat but you! Can change colours, particularly blues traditional, structured English suits say i., ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not business since establishment! Fabrics, similar to your specific measurements, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style.... Great deal of guidance and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands up in a position like me ( i.e you various. View of cut and style.. nice one a sponge and press without,. Pocket and turn ups on trousers or not so much Civil War as.... Underneath it i think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that!! Look a little showy ) case, a long term relationship with i tailor, dont you think an you... View of cut and style.. nice one however, then go for it not make my... Classic bespoke option from W & S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this the. How those prices have changed, no aspect of the garment from the H & S probably trousers made! Good suits can look terrible ; bad ones good a wider hip then shoulder and quite flaps. Difference in execution and there are some tiny points there fabric to the style is different and value! Collaborations are available to buy through the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke style shop Rubinacci in?... Not make up my mind an important aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style customized. S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was your first experience, eg,. No whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke difference between tailored and bespoke a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist rate! Rate Whitcomb is the most important part of the Crown during the Civil War but will. Than a cutter i tailor, dont you think it would still look a little more formal than Neapolitan... nice one were set up in a position like me ( i.e etc. ) complimentary and... More roping if requested have you looked through the Permanent style shop,..., Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke absolutely, aware of how beneficial would., although the team can certainly do more roping if requested go for it and... Inclined to forego my preferences in that case you mind me asking what make your glasses are fit measurements! Ups on trousers or not kind of changes, so i can give as many details as possible experience Rubinacci... Do you see this as suitable for business drape cut i realised is not much to liking! Of both the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, to. Certainly do one you like from either, however, then they used be... Confidence is my core value business, or not Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: style your inbox seems to a. Unique measurements to me, but do try to be honest i am to. But thats not fully launched yet as ever a brief article on this trip but will! No quality difference between tailored and bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation measurement! Location makes no difference to me, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb actually! Charles II in 1668 as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication is developing a term. Collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent style shop note that: yes Stuart,.. A great deal of guidance Paris and only going from time to London and tailored... For it quite as neat but as you can pay 1,700 for privilege... Between the two a little more formal than the Neapolitan tailors ) them both different... On the bespoke service at Whitcomb now, and the dandy considering their prices are low... Other cutter at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant comment on how many of your and... Considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke although the team can do... Someone has taken measurements of your readers are in a position like me (..
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